Saffron :: An Experience in Fine Dining

Last night Belker, that lovable detective whose multitudinous idiosyncrasies made him the pet of the Hill Street precinct, discovered where the disappearing feral cats were going. Today, October 31, 1984, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi has been assassinated. Tonight, we will be travelling 30 miles to an Indian restaurant at the intersection of Ridge Road and Lincoln Highway in Kingston, NJ. The highly coveted reservations for two were made months ago. Ever since the NY Times review appeared praising the skills of the chef owner, every gourmand in the New York Metropolitan area has made the trek to this sleepy community on the outskirts of Princeton.

With bottle of Gewürztraminer in hand and not knowing what to expect (confirmation that the restaurant would be open having been made), we approached the three-story Victorian style mansion with uncertainty. As we entered, it was immediately clear that we would have a very private dining experience. Capable of easily accommodating hundreds, the sprawling rooms had only the tiniest population. Although the staff’s somber demeanor was somewhat off-putting, the overall experience confirmed the accuracy of the restaurant’s lofty rating.

Twenty-five years later, a first visit to Saffron, owner chef Mike Hussain’s newest of three restaurants, early on a Tuesday night was déjà vu all over again! A sparse crowd at the 1061 East Indiantown Road location in Jupiter brought back a flood of memories. Thankfully, the staff’s enthusiasm and the grainy Bollywood music videos broadcast on small, discreetly placed screens with a very low volume created a delightful energy.

While we explored the extensive menu, we nibbled on Masale-e-wale Papad, paper-thin, crisp bread that was served with three chutneys: tamarind, tomato, and mint. Each chutney is distinctive and memorable. While my partner found the tamarind refreshing, the slightly hot spiciness of the mint while not anticipated was excellent just the same. Our meal started with Lamb Samosa, two moderately sized puff pastries filled with lamb, peas and aromatic Indian spices for my partner and Aloo Tikki Chaat, potatoes with chickpeas, flour, yogurt, sev, and spices. Sev is string-like, gram flour based snack that is similar in consistency if not flavor to dried Chinese noodles. Both dishes were notable for the preparation and the presentation, which was very appealing.

The entrees, Lamb Chop Masala and Shrimp Vindaloo, were similar yet entirely different. Served in tureens with an abundance of sauce, their appearance caused one to wonder if both dishes were prepared in the same pot. We quickly learned that each dish was totally unique. The curry sauce with the lamb chop was rich and full bodied. The hot spicy sauce on the shrimp was fiery. Each had a slightly different texture, but both were ideal on an unseasonably cold night. Both dishes were well prepared.

The Riesling, chosen from a limited wine list was the perfect accompaniment to the meal. The delicate sweetness offered a perfect balance to the robust flavors of the meals.

No genuine Indian feast would be complete without one of the leavened breads with onions. Our choice was plain naan, the garlic being another concession to a cool evening.

The evening turned out to be a memorable experience that will be repeated in the coming weeks with friends who enjoy experiencing new flavors and aromas, who appreciate unique textures and colors.